The Mountains, on Two Wheels

Seven days on Route 1095 and the roads past it: a night in Chiang Mai, three in Pai on a scooter, and two in a Yunnanese tea village against the Myanmar border.

Length
7 days, 6 nights
Starts and ends
Chiang Mai
Pace
Active
Best months
Nov to Feb

Day by day

  1. Day 1

    Chiang Mai

    From the airport to the old city, then Wat Chedi Luang and Wat Phra Singh on foot. Up Doi Suthep for sunset, then dinner at Chang Phuak Gate.

    Sleep
    Chiang Mai
    Meals
    Dinner on your own
    On the road
    Airport to the old city, then up Doi Suthep
    Included
    Airport transfer, temple entries
  2. Day 2

    Chiang Mai to Pai

    Minivan from Chiang Mai to Pai over the mountains. Collect the scooter, ride to Pai Canyon for sunset, then the walking street in the evening.

    Sleep
    Pai
    Meals
    Breakfast
    On the road
    About 3 hours by minivan
    Included
    Minivan to Pai, the scooter from today
    Worth knowing

    Pai Canyon is busiest at sunset. Go at sunrise instead and you will have the ridge nearly to yourselves — the ride is twenty minutes and the light is better.

  3. Day 3

    Pai

    The white Buddha in the morning, the Tha Pai hot springs at midday, then the Yunnanese village at Santichon and tea at Yun Lai.

    Sleep
    Pai
    Meals
    Breakfast
    On the road
    Short rides around the valley
    Included
    Tha Pai hot springs, the scooter
  4. Day 4

    Pai

    By scooter to the Land Split, Mor Paeng waterfall and the bamboo bridge at Boon Ko Ku So. River tubing in the afternoon if you have added it.

    Sleep
    Pai
    Meals
    Breakfast
    On the road
    Short rides around the valley
    Included
    The scooter
    Extra
    Three hours down the river in a tube, ₹2,000 each
  5. Day 5

    Pai to Ban Rak Thai

    Ride north through the Soppong valley to Tham Lod for the cave and the bamboo raft. Lunch at Ban Ja Bo, then on to Ban Rak Thai on the Myanmar border.

    Sleep
    Ban Rak Thai
    Meals
    Breakfast
    On the road
    About 4 hours riding, with stops
    Included
    Tham Lod with a lantern guide and the bamboo raft
    Or instead

    Rather not ride four hours? A car and driver takes the mountain legs, today and the way back on Day 7. The scooter stays in Pai for the short days.

  6. Day 6

    Ban Rak Thai

    A boat on the lake at 6 am, Pang Oung at midday, then tea tasting on the slope.

    Sleep
    Ban Rak Thai
    Meals
    Breakfast
    On the road
    Half an hour each way to Pang Oung
    Included
    Boat at first light, Pang Oung entry, tea tasting
    Worth knowing

    Cash only up here, and the nearest cash machine is a long way back down the valley. Draw enough for two days before you leave Pai.

  7. Day 7

    Back to Chiang Mai, and home

    Ride back to Pai and return the scooter, then the minivan to Chiang Mai and the flight out through Bangkok.

    Sleep
    Home, or your own onward plans
    Meals
    Breakfast
    On the road
    About 4 hours riding, then 3 by minivan
    Included
    Minivan back to Chiang Mai
    Extra
    Fly out of Mae Hong Son, ₹6,000 each

Room to change

Every day on this trip can move. These are the changes we’ve already worked out, and what each one involves.

Travelling with parents

A car and driver for the mountain legs instead of scooters, and the flight home from Mae Hong Son, so nobody does the 762 curves twice.

Never ridden a scooter

An hour’s practice on a quiet road in Pai before the canyon. If it has not clicked by Day 4, a driver takes the ride to Ban Rak Thai.

Slower

A night in Soppong on the way north, so the cave gets its own morning and no day has more than two hours of riding.

Longer at the lake

A third night at Ban Rak Thai. You get the mist on the water twice, and the last day stops being the longest.

Tell us what you’d change and we’ll send it back with a price, usually within a day.

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Where it goes

  1. Chiang MaiStart and end · 1 night
  2. Pai3 nights
  3. Tham LodDay stop
  4. Ban Rak Thai2 nights

Where you’ll sleep

Old city, Chiang Mai1 night

The Cabin Backpackers or similar

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From people who went

Three travellers with backpacks and a suitcase on the long wooden-roofed platform at Chiang Mai railway station
A pale blue motorbike parked on the pavement outside a café in Chiang Mai
A man pushing a wheelbarrow along a village lane, with a red Chinese-style gate behind him
Forested hills in northern Thailand under heavy grey cloud
A dirt track through fields to wooden houses, with mountains behind

The small print

  • Airport transfer in Chiang Mai
  • 6 nights: 1 in Chiang Mai, 3 in Pai, 2 in Ban Rak Thai
  • Minivans Chiang Mai to Pai and back
  • A scooter for three days in Pai
  • Daily breakfast
  • Temple and national park entries
  • Tha Pai hot springs
  • Tham Lod cave, with a lantern guide and the bamboo raft
  • The wooden boat on the lake at first light
  • Pang Oung entry
  • Tea tasting at Ban Rak Thai

  • International flights
  • Travel insurance
  • Lunches and dinners
  • Fuel and the scooter deposit
  • Your International Driving Permit
  • River tubing at Pai
  • Tips and gratuities

  • Indian passport holders enter visa-exempt.
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